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The Kashmir That Still Believes

Srinagar, Aug. 26 -- The women had gathered beneath the pale light of Hazratbal, their hands raised in prayer as the Prophet Muhammad [PBUH]'s relic was displayed. Some wept openly, others bowed thei... Read More


A Minor Girl Puts Kashmir's Family Courts to the Test

Srinagar, Aug. 25 -- Twice a month, ZG, 8, walks into a family courtroom in Srinagar with her mother. The journey has become part of her life. There is the trip to court, the wait for the case to be ... Read More


The Prophet's Way Through Kashmir

Srinagar, Aug. 21 -- Before the first light reaches the chinars around Hazratbal, the shrine has already begun to gather its people. Green banners hang above the shopfronts. Copper vessels catch the ... Read More


NRI Flies 11,000 Kilometres From Canada After His Home in Kashmir Goes Dark

Srinagar, Aug. 8 -- The lights had stopped working by the time Zahid walked through the house in Tral one July evening. Water had stopped flowing, the security cameras that watched the gates had disa... Read More


Why So Many Girls in Kashmir Fear Their Own Homes

Srinagar, Aug. 6 -- A phone call interrupted my work last week. A colleague said a young girl wanted a lawyer because she had reached the point where a courtroom felt safer than the place where she gr... Read More


The Six-Hour Hunt for a Mother and Son in Kashmir's Canal Murder

Srinagar, Aug. 1 -- The body surfaced before the names did. Just after dawn on July 30, officers from the Khanyar police station reached the Babademb Canal, beneath the Baba Dawood Khakhi Bridge, and... Read More


The Kashmiri Who Made Europe Believe in Magic

Srinagar, July 22 -- The story begins with an absence. Kashmir remembers its movers and shakers, but it has almost forgotten the man who stopped traffic in London, baffled scientists at the Universit... Read More


Kashmir Sits on a River and Still Asks Its Women to Beg for a Bucket

Srinagar, July 11 -- Kashmir loves to call itself the land of rivers, springs and lakes, where water supposedly flows as freely as the poetry written about it. Srinagar sits close enough to the Jhelu... Read More


Kashmir's Barefoot Walk of Remembrance

Srinagar, June 26 -- Warm asphalt pressed against bare feet as women entered Zadibal on Ashura morning, joining thousands of mourners in Srinagar's oldest Muharram neighbourhood. Black banners hung a... Read More


Kashmir Needs Builders, Not Armchair Critics

Srinagar, June 24 -- I still think about a book launch I attended years ago in Srinagar. The gathering brought together writers, academics, journalists, and readers to "celebrate" the publication of ... Read More